http://forums.ottawafoos.com/ Fri, 18 May 2012 08:26:25 +0000 MyBB http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1029 Sat, 12 May 2012 22:13:38 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1029
Starting with the most recent League video: 2012 05 09 Spring League Night

As usual there were also photos taken the same evening:



Here's the link to the slide show for the album: 2012 05 09 Spring League Night Photos
If you find it too slow click on options at the upper right corner and set it to fast. If you can't find out how to download your photos let me know.]]>
Starting with the most recent League video: 2012 05 09 Spring League Night

As usual there were also photos taken the same evening:



Here's the link to the slide show for the album: 2012 05 09 Spring League Night Photos
If you find it too slow click on options at the upper right corner and set it to fast. If you can't find out how to download your photos let me know.]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1028 Fri, 11 May 2012 21:30:27 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1028 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1027 Fri, 11 May 2012 21:29:03 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1027 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1026 Fri, 11 May 2012 17:20:40 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1026 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1025 Fri, 11 May 2012 15:49:39 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1025
The application, along with full instructions for both it and the deposit, is now downloadable online at http://tablesoccerca.ning.com/ . Good luck to everyone!]]>
The application, along with full instructions for both it and the deposit, is now downloadable online at http://tablesoccerca.ning.com/ . Good luck to everyone!]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1024 Fri, 11 May 2012 14:38:05 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1024
More details to come.]]>
More details to come.]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1023 Thu, 10 May 2012 16:56:04 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1023 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1022 Wed, 09 May 2012 15:59:13 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1022
White, Black, Yellow, Red and Light Blue.

Might be looking into getting some Masterwrap versions with the TO boys. That won't be for a few more months though.

Chris]]>
White, Black, Yellow, Red and Light Blue.

Might be looking into getting some Masterwrap versions with the TO boys. That won't be for a few more months though.

Chris]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1021 Mon, 07 May 2012 20:31:48 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1021

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WHAT TABLE SHOULD I BUY?
Bottom line answer is buy a Tornado coin-op unless you have a specific background on a certain table. In the US, there are only 3 table manufactures that are part of a serious discussion.

TORNADO COIN-OP MODELS

Brown Marble - Brown Marble 1983 - 1997 - stopped using the metal feet about 1988 but continued to sell them as parts until 1996 $350-$450
oldest versions have the large metal feet and are considered the most (some debate now with the newest complete change T3000) solid consistent of all the tables
Most common have the current smaller plastic foot - I am not aware of any other substantial difference between this and the large foot except the feet...this was my favorite table but the new T3000 is very close in playability but considering the age and time "in the field" the Brwn Mrbl is still the best table Tornado has made but if the T3000 stands the test of time, it will be a toss up on which is best and the decision will be which play style you prefer
so, if you are looking for an inexpensive used table, this is your best bet...wide swing in quality because of how long they have been out there so this requires patients and careful shopping

Blonde – 1997 - 2001 This was the first color change at Valley ... it matched their ZD-7 pool table - $400-$550
consistent all the same, plays much different than the Brown Marble and has become my least favorite of all the tables

Cherry or Mahogany 2001 - 2003 Again this was changed to match the ZD-8 pool table - $450 - $650
Fastest of all the tables and because of this can be a challenge with ball control...

- I own this table, ball control is difficult but the speed is fun...play is improved with heat-treated rods but it doesn't really fix the control issues...however, if you can play on this table, you can play on any table...everything is easier after playing on this which in my mind makes it a good practice table

GREY MARBLES 2003 - 2007 - $400-$750
Overall, even with the quirks and all the confusing talk below about manufacturing changes, this is a really nice table.

30th Anniversary Grey Marble - 2003 release, only out during 2003
You can tell if it is a 30th Ann model because it will say 'Product of Valley' under the logo on the table surface.
This table really starts a wild string of table changes which are hard to document and follow but let me take a stab at it.

The Merkel heat-treated rods were introduced at this time...in my opinion the best table change I have seen on any table at any time - only rival now is the Warrior ball...the rods were very smooth, were almost unbendable, and required far less lube to keep them at their best

Issue 1: First tables released did not all have Merkel rods, there was a mix...some tables had none, some had some, some had all...this run of tables was fairly short so I don't think there were enough made at the end to be sure when ALL Merkel rods were available
Playing surface was a little different and many liked this table because it created extra control due to the surface change...

Issue 2: Before this run was done, the man changes began and spilled over to the beginning of the Grey Marble runs...there was an attempt to make a more durable cheaper man using Nylon (Lets call this Nylon 1) (pretty darn ironic since the Tornado man was already super durable)...Nylon set up differently in the molds so it created seam issues on the side of the man which impacted tic tacking and some had dips in the front and/or back of the foot - This first Nylon man was had a dull finish and is easy to pick out on a table,
They didn't give up on Nylon right away and so began Nylon 2 where they tried a different chemistry mix...still very inconsistent mold issues...this man is easy to pick out because it is very shinny ...
Both Nylon men were short-lived but still on the 30th and early Grey Marble to follow, there ended up being tables with some or all of the original man, Nylon 1, and/or Nylon 2 men

Grey Marble - 2004 to end of 2006 beginning 2007
Different playing surface than the 30th
Earliest versions had mix of men but were consistent with Merkel rods but less than a year in they had gone back to the original man and all Merkel rods...this was the best of the Grey Marbles...good playing solid table

Handles – went from shape which was well known and long running to wood with deeper dip, then to plastic with less dip, which was soundly rejected and short-lived, back to the original wood less dip

Rod - Part way through the life of this version Tornado dropped Merkel because they thought the rod was too expensive and went with an imported heat-treated rod...still better than the original rod but nothing near as good as the Merkel rods (Merkel is the last name of the person making them...made here in the US just for this application...Warrior is considering this in coming competition models)

Merkel rod side thought: How good is this rod? Played on a Brown Marble bar table which saw much non-fooser abuse...every bar table with non-merkel rods is going to have a bent 2 rod, just a matter of time and eventually the 3 rod as well...the owner of this table, without knowing it, replaced the 2 rods with Merkel and we played on that table for OVER 2 YEARS without the 2 rods ever bending...need I say more?

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T2000 (Metal Wrap) "Fridge" 2007 to Worlds 2008 - $700-$850 - assuming surface is NOT warped and has never been warped

Not Tornado name but ... this was the first metal wrap table and it had the small USTSA / VIFA / ITSF logo's on the end. Not widely known but Tornado called this table the T-3000 Tour Edition but for the everyday player it was still a T2000 and the T3000 Full Meal Deal didn't come out until 2009

Okay, this was a good table outside of not having Merkel rods but instead the imported heat-treated rods...no surface, man, or handle changes during the run BUT

Toward the end of the run and around the same time two important negative things happened...one is that they made a change in the production of the playing surface and there are a bunch of these tables with warped surfaces...if you get one of these warped surface tables you will own the worst Tornado ever made…I have had the misfortune of having to play on one of these and it ranks with the worst foosball experiences I can remember...EVER! there is no excuse and no fixing it...

The warped playing surface tables showed up at Tornado tournaments to the dismay of many...there is a "fix" suggested out there were you put blocks under the top to push up the surface (available on other board)...I won't get into details but a warped playing surface on any table in foosball is unacceptable PERIOD...the playing surface needs to be replaced by the manufacture...this is bad enough it should have a recall. Note: Tornado acknowledges that the warping is real and their problem. Tornado send a new surface but you have to replace the surface yourself and this is not easy for most people. Best not to get one to begin with.

The other tragedy is the change on the latest models, start of 2008 I believe, of the score markers to the new plastic CRAP CRAP CRAP...it may be hard to tell but I don't like these - I understand the logic and why they did it, but it is a terrible design.

Now, with that said, I have a friend (BigBrewGuy on this forum) who has a first run Fridge table with the original score markers and a solid flat playing surface and it is a very nice table and plays really well…he got lucky

It was during this time that Tornado started trying to make some positive changes...they say the warped top issue is fixed...it appears now as of this date, 08/04/09, that the issue is resolved on new table production and that all T3000 (true T3000's) have the issue fixed...any metal wrapped table before the release of the T3000 is at least suspect. Not all are bad, you just need to make sure yours is not if you buy the metal wrapped T2000.

Okay, this is tricky, because there have been a number of changes which took place toward the end of this run moving into the "full meal deal T3000" (I will explain what I mean by this shortly)
Without comment on the motivation or process (and there is a ton), the following are the changes that were decided on

LATE MODEL 2008 Fridge table changes

• Bearings: Inside face of bearings made thinner…because the ball could pass behind a man even when the man was flush on the wall…most notable if you did a stick wall pass perfect - not only could you go through the defense even if the man was flat on the wall but it could also go behind your 3 bar when trying to catch it…this change has fixed that issue completely - from good change so far - I have played on the new bearings at Nationals and on a players upgraded Grey Marble and the bearing is as advertized but it seems to me to improve the rod movement as well which if true is an unplanned result but still good.

• Man: the foot of the man was changed, not enough in my opinion (more on this another time)…they were trying to address two things…ball control and hitting a consistent angle which would open the game up with banks and accurate angle shots like should be used on pushkick and pullkcick shots (not limited to this, just any time a consistent angle is needed) - two changes were done to try and make these things happen

Man change 1 - On the face of the "new" man the cross-hatch goes further up to about ¾ of the face of the man instead of stopping at about ½ way

Man change 2 - this plaid pattern did not go all the way to the edge of the man before the man change (like it does on the Warrior man), instead there was, and is, an “edge” something between 1/32 and 1/16 of an inch…very thin but impacting how the ball is struck for angles and control in a pin...this edge was not removed with the new man change but there was an edge change

Man Edge Change - There has been an edge change…in attempt to fix the angle striking issues, that edge has been slightly beveled…so instead of being a right angle with the side of the man, this same line/strip is now on an angle…say from 90 degrees to 45 degrees…I don’t actually think this is a full 45 egrees but rather something in between 90 and 45 degrees, Ed Geer could probably say what they settled on

although in my opinion, they did not make the best decision when changing the mold and should have gone cross-hatch all the way to the edge and taken the curve away and made the front edge a straight edge, the overall change is still positive

• Side-strips, Handles, and Balls - a decision to change these was made at this time too but the changes were not implemented until the T3000 "full meal deal".

Platinum Tour Edition T3000 2009 - current

Platinum Tour 2008 First used fully dressed out at the 2008 World Championships. It was not until the 2009 Hall of Fame tournament that this table had all the upgrades.

What do I mean by “full meal deal T3000”? Well, there are some late model T2000 metal wrap tables (that have the new CRAPPY plastic score markers) and that seem to have been sold as T3000 tables. Some (but not all) of these tables have the Big Tornado and ITSF stickers…see video below on set up of the table Zeke won at Worlds which he calls a T3000 but which is not a Full Meal Deal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtFqO5Ng-7s

My local bar was sold this same table (with small stickers) being told it was a T3000…this is the table with the warped surface…This new bar table and the Zeke’s table are NOT what I consider a real T3000 but as pointed out by Dave and Torando, technically this is a T3000… Tornado may indeed have tried to sell these tables as T3000's, name or not, they are NOT the “full meal deal” T3000 and really are late run T2000 tables

I think Zeke’s does not have a warped surface and BigBrewGuy has same table with little stickers sans CRAPPY plastic markers...no other difference...T3000? For sure they are NOT.

T3000 2009 - current - $1000-$1175“FULL MEAL DEAL T3000”This table should have all the changes listed above, men, bearings, CRAPPY score-markers, Big Tornado/ITSF stickers.
In addition to these changes the real T3000 should have a unwarped surface and the following.

Handle Change: Now a softer “plastic” compound same shape as the wood handle above I refer to as “original” handle. It looks something like the plastic handle that Tornado tried during the Grey Marble era but they are a different material, slightly softer, slightly but noticeably smaller, and they do not have the hard edges of the original plastic handle. These factors make this a significant improvement. Real nice handle, highly recommended for Tornado players.

Side-Strip: changed to clear strip, slightly wider, which is essentially flat…this is to keep the ball from jumping up after hitting the strip to help facilitate banks and cut ball off the table…trade off is that the ball gets stuck on the wall from time to time - it works and ball is off the table less

Ball Change: as of 6/29/09 Tornado has settled on a ball and it is slightly darker red, harder, and keeps its scruffy surface longer...it is referred to has the "5 hour tumbled" ball because it has been tumbled for 5 hours to get the surface it has...pretty good ball but I think it is too hard...Tornado isn't showing any signs of changing this ball again any time soon. The 5 hour tumbled ball wears slow and consistent.

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KEYS TO BUYING A USED COIN-OP
When buying a used table, everyone asks what they should look for…
Take or get lots of close up good digital pictures and I or someone on this site can help you determine what you are looking at… If possible, best to visit table in person but either way, these are the things you are looking for.

1. TABLE SURFACE: First and most important is, is the table surface level...no warping...it would be very weird if a BrMrb had warping but don't assume it is okay because it could warp if it sat in a bar long enough and had enough beer spilled on it - this would be a total deal killer
Tornado has only had one manufacturing issue with warped surfaces and that was the Metal wrapped F5/T2000…not all, but many of these tables had warped surfaces…do not buy one of these…long story but bottom line is it is too much hassle to fix and you can easily find a different coin-op without a warped playing surface.

2. GOAL EDGES: Second and probably a deal breaker are the edges on the goals...if they have been hit enough times that they are starting to chip away, we call this a "blown out goal" then you probably want to pass on this one and wait for the next table (there will be more)...it can be fixed but it is very complicated and requires real skill

3. INSIDE PLAYFIELD WALLS: the inside walls (white surface) should be firmly attached, no lifting, pockets, chipping, holes, etc….this like the goal edges and play surface are very hard for an average person to fix and if they are really damaged, should be a deal killer

4. RODS: rods need to all be straight, no bends at all...the seller can tell if the rods are bent but if they aren’t sure, they can spin each and if it wobbles when it spins, its bent...bent rods are not a deal breaker because they aren't too hard to replace but they are $35 each plus shipping so you would want to figure that out into your offer

5. MEN: Cracked or broken men - same as the rods, not a deal breaker but a cost if some need to be replaced difference is cost is much lower impact at $5 each...you will want to get 2 or 3 of each color anyway unless the person has extra with the table

6. COIN MECHANISM: Make sure the coin mechanism is fully working even if you don’t need it for your use because if you ever want to re-sell it, you will want this working, it gives you a bigger audience of buyers. Replacing all the parts in this is well over $100. With that said, it will be very rare you find one that doesn’t work but you should know for sure before buying. If there are problems, figure them out and what it will cost to fix and negotiate selling price or walk away from deal.

7. FEET AND LEGS: Legs aren’t likely to be bad, haven’t seen that many times but the feet need to be in good shape and working (meaning they can thread up and down)...if not, they can be easily replaced, and they are inexpenisve…this should only impact your offer price

8. BALLS: Are there any with the table and what shape...this is the least of the things but good to know because balls are $3 each...just an aside, a ton of people don't like them but if the ball is a genuine Tornado ball but is well used from a bar, I love them because they get very sticky and are good for control especially for a new player...they bounce a little more too but that doesn't bother me...you will not find universal agreement on this point just my opinion for what its worth…most old Tornado balls can be washed and made near like new easily if you want that

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AFTER THE PURCHASE - basic TABLE MAINTENANCE

Equipment Needed for Basic Maintenance
• Roll pins 30 cents each: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-020.html
• Silicone 8 oz bottle $12: http://tornadofoosb.powweb.com/store/page6.html
• Pocket Size $2.50: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/fooslube.html
• Bearing Wrench $5.50: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-049.html
• Roll Pin Punch $5: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-021.html

If you need to replace any bearings, bumpers, or men, they can be found here
Tornado Parts: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/tornado.html

Spare Parts…what should you have on hand.
• 2 or 3 each color man, when you get down to 1, reorder
• 15-20 roll pins, when you get to 5, reorder
• 4 bumpers, when you get down to 1, reorder
• 1 split bearing halves – these don’t go bad almost ever, so one should take care of you for a long time…reorder when you use it

What to do…Clean the table top to bottom...most people use a 50/50 mix of water and 409 cleaner ... I personally was taught many many years ago never to use anything on the playing surface or on the men so I just use hot water and elbow grease...it is the safe way and guarantees you don't leave any foreign substance on the playing surfaces

on the exterior cabinet, legs, and feet the 50/50 works real well

Using a Bearing Wrench, take all your bearings apart and clean any built up gunk from the bearing half's...the first time you do this on a used table, I recommend taking them all off and doing them all at the same time. For ongoing maintenance, just pull take apart the split bearings once or twice a year or whenever you suspect build up…clean at that time one at a time with hot water or use the 50/50 mixture.
A Bearing Wrench usually comes with the table. You can do it without a bearing wrench but it is harder and this is a basic must have table tool.
Bearing Wrench $5.50: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-049.html

The non-split side of the bearings, the “nut” may be gunky too, they are part of the “bearings”
the ones on the non handle side are easy to remove but if want the bearing nut on this side, you will need to remove handle - make sure you have extra roll pins before beginning this phase of clean up
Roll Pins 30 cents each: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-020.html

Roll Pin Punch $5 or $9: Did you get a roll pin "punch" with the table? if not, again you NEED one of these...you can use other things like a counter sink to get by but this is made for this application and is worth the investment and is a standard table maintenance tool

here is the punch everyone uses standard with every table sold
Roll Pin Punch $5: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-021.html

however, recently foosball.com found a big boy version of this which I bought and it is much better, easier to use, I absolutely love it...to me, well worth the difference in price...you can't tell by the pictures but trust me when I say the standard is like a 6 year old and the big one is like a professional NFL linebacker...okay, that may be overstated a little but you get the idea...foosdirect is the only place I have ever seen it
Big Boy "Super Pin Driver" $8.95: http://foosdirectstore.stores.yahoo.net/...river.html

Cleaning the Bearings: Simplest approach is to take them all off (bearing halves and the bearing nut), and soak them in very hot water and a liberal amount of dish soap…let these soak while you scrub the table surface and rods…then go back to the bearings when you are done and wash each one until they are totally clean of build up, rinse with hot of water (as hot as you can stand)…lay them out on a dry cloth to drain/dry
Make sure they are air or hand dried completely before putting them back on the table

After you have all your bearings cleaned and before you replace them, clean the rods really well to remove anything left on them like silicone, beer, Jack Daniels, or other "special" fluids people creatively use to "lube" the rods

Silicone: Hopefully you were given some Silicone but if not you NEED it...I recommend buying a large supply bottle and the small applicator Pocket Size version. The Pocket Size version it is by far the best way to apply silicone and you can use the big bottle to refill the travel size. Silicone should go on rods only, don’t get it on anything else, it is very slick. Apply thin line on each rod from the bumper to the edge of the inside bearing – do this on the near side and far side of the rod.
Turn the rod in circles and pull the rods back and forth gently and slowly at first to evenly distribute the lube on all sides and to not splatter any on the table surface.

8 oz bottle $12 http: //tornadofoosb.powweb.com/store/page6.html
Pocket Size $2.50 http: //foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/fooslube.html

Ball Care: If you have gotten Tornado balls with your used table or end up with older used Tornado balls, you can bring them back to near new by simply putting them is a sock and throwing them in your washer and wash with soap and hot water. When they are done, throw them in the drier (still in the sock) and dry on hot fully. There are many other methods but this is simple and works surprisingly well.

NOTE ABOUT ON-GOING MATINENANCE
once you have done the complete cleaning, you won't need to put more than an hour a two a year into maintenance to keep your table like new...if you play everyday, wipe the surface once a month or so, clean bearings one hear one there as needed, and lube the rods as needed. Very simple and easy. Every couple years you can do the deep cleaning with all bearings and so forth. Along the way, you will need to change a man and a bumper even less often. Thats it, it just doesn't get any easier.]]>

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WHAT TABLE SHOULD I BUY?
Bottom line answer is buy a Tornado coin-op unless you have a specific background on a certain table. In the US, there are only 3 table manufactures that are part of a serious discussion.

TORNADO COIN-OP MODELS

Brown Marble - Brown Marble 1983 - 1997 - stopped using the metal feet about 1988 but continued to sell them as parts until 1996 $350-$450
oldest versions have the large metal feet and are considered the most (some debate now with the newest complete change T3000) solid consistent of all the tables
Most common have the current smaller plastic foot - I am not aware of any other substantial difference between this and the large foot except the feet...this was my favorite table but the new T3000 is very close in playability but considering the age and time "in the field" the Brwn Mrbl is still the best table Tornado has made but if the T3000 stands the test of time, it will be a toss up on which is best and the decision will be which play style you prefer
so, if you are looking for an inexpensive used table, this is your best bet...wide swing in quality because of how long they have been out there so this requires patients and careful shopping

Blonde – 1997 - 2001 This was the first color change at Valley ... it matched their ZD-7 pool table - $400-$550
consistent all the same, plays much different than the Brown Marble and has become my least favorite of all the tables

Cherry or Mahogany 2001 - 2003 Again this was changed to match the ZD-8 pool table - $450 - $650
Fastest of all the tables and because of this can be a challenge with ball control...

- I own this table, ball control is difficult but the speed is fun...play is improved with heat-treated rods but it doesn't really fix the control issues...however, if you can play on this table, you can play on any table...everything is easier after playing on this which in my mind makes it a good practice table

GREY MARBLES 2003 - 2007 - $400-$750
Overall, even with the quirks and all the confusing talk below about manufacturing changes, this is a really nice table.

30th Anniversary Grey Marble - 2003 release, only out during 2003
You can tell if it is a 30th Ann model because it will say 'Product of Valley' under the logo on the table surface.
This table really starts a wild string of table changes which are hard to document and follow but let me take a stab at it.

The Merkel heat-treated rods were introduced at this time...in my opinion the best table change I have seen on any table at any time - only rival now is the Warrior ball...the rods were very smooth, were almost unbendable, and required far less lube to keep them at their best

Issue 1: First tables released did not all have Merkel rods, there was a mix...some tables had none, some had some, some had all...this run of tables was fairly short so I don't think there were enough made at the end to be sure when ALL Merkel rods were available
Playing surface was a little different and many liked this table because it created extra control due to the surface change...

Issue 2: Before this run was done, the man changes began and spilled over to the beginning of the Grey Marble runs...there was an attempt to make a more durable cheaper man using Nylon (Lets call this Nylon 1) (pretty darn ironic since the Tornado man was already super durable)...Nylon set up differently in the molds so it created seam issues on the side of the man which impacted tic tacking and some had dips in the front and/or back of the foot - This first Nylon man was had a dull finish and is easy to pick out on a table,
They didn't give up on Nylon right away and so began Nylon 2 where they tried a different chemistry mix...still very inconsistent mold issues...this man is easy to pick out because it is very shinny ...
Both Nylon men were short-lived but still on the 30th and early Grey Marble to follow, there ended up being tables with some or all of the original man, Nylon 1, and/or Nylon 2 men

Grey Marble - 2004 to end of 2006 beginning 2007
Different playing surface than the 30th
Earliest versions had mix of men but were consistent with Merkel rods but less than a year in they had gone back to the original man and all Merkel rods...this was the best of the Grey Marbles...good playing solid table

Handles – went from shape which was well known and long running to wood with deeper dip, then to plastic with less dip, which was soundly rejected and short-lived, back to the original wood less dip

Rod - Part way through the life of this version Tornado dropped Merkel because they thought the rod was too expensive and went with an imported heat-treated rod...still better than the original rod but nothing near as good as the Merkel rods (Merkel is the last name of the person making them...made here in the US just for this application...Warrior is considering this in coming competition models)

Merkel rod side thought: How good is this rod? Played on a Brown Marble bar table which saw much non-fooser abuse...every bar table with non-merkel rods is going to have a bent 2 rod, just a matter of time and eventually the 3 rod as well...the owner of this table, without knowing it, replaced the 2 rods with Merkel and we played on that table for OVER 2 YEARS without the 2 rods ever bending...need I say more?

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T2000 (Metal Wrap) "Fridge" 2007 to Worlds 2008 - $700-$850 - assuming surface is NOT warped and has never been warped

Not Tornado name but ... this was the first metal wrap table and it had the small USTSA / VIFA / ITSF logo's on the end. Not widely known but Tornado called this table the T-3000 Tour Edition but for the everyday player it was still a T2000 and the T3000 Full Meal Deal didn't come out until 2009

Okay, this was a good table outside of not having Merkel rods but instead the imported heat-treated rods...no surface, man, or handle changes during the run BUT

Toward the end of the run and around the same time two important negative things happened...one is that they made a change in the production of the playing surface and there are a bunch of these tables with warped surfaces...if you get one of these warped surface tables you will own the worst Tornado ever made…I have had the misfortune of having to play on one of these and it ranks with the worst foosball experiences I can remember...EVER! there is no excuse and no fixing it...

The warped playing surface tables showed up at Tornado tournaments to the dismay of many...there is a "fix" suggested out there were you put blocks under the top to push up the surface (available on other board)...I won't get into details but a warped playing surface on any table in foosball is unacceptable PERIOD...the playing surface needs to be replaced by the manufacture...this is bad enough it should have a recall. Note: Tornado acknowledges that the warping is real and their problem. Tornado send a new surface but you have to replace the surface yourself and this is not easy for most people. Best not to get one to begin with.

The other tragedy is the change on the latest models, start of 2008 I believe, of the score markers to the new plastic CRAP CRAP CRAP...it may be hard to tell but I don't like these - I understand the logic and why they did it, but it is a terrible design.

Now, with that said, I have a friend (BigBrewGuy on this forum) who has a first run Fridge table with the original score markers and a solid flat playing surface and it is a very nice table and plays really well…he got lucky

It was during this time that Tornado started trying to make some positive changes...they say the warped top issue is fixed...it appears now as of this date, 08/04/09, that the issue is resolved on new table production and that all T3000 (true T3000's) have the issue fixed...any metal wrapped table before the release of the T3000 is at least suspect. Not all are bad, you just need to make sure yours is not if you buy the metal wrapped T2000.

Okay, this is tricky, because there have been a number of changes which took place toward the end of this run moving into the "full meal deal T3000" (I will explain what I mean by this shortly)
Without comment on the motivation or process (and there is a ton), the following are the changes that were decided on

LATE MODEL 2008 Fridge table changes

• Bearings: Inside face of bearings made thinner…because the ball could pass behind a man even when the man was flush on the wall…most notable if you did a stick wall pass perfect - not only could you go through the defense even if the man was flat on the wall but it could also go behind your 3 bar when trying to catch it…this change has fixed that issue completely - from good change so far - I have played on the new bearings at Nationals and on a players upgraded Grey Marble and the bearing is as advertized but it seems to me to improve the rod movement as well which if true is an unplanned result but still good.

• Man: the foot of the man was changed, not enough in my opinion (more on this another time)…they were trying to address two things…ball control and hitting a consistent angle which would open the game up with banks and accurate angle shots like should be used on pushkick and pullkcick shots (not limited to this, just any time a consistent angle is needed) - two changes were done to try and make these things happen

Man change 1 - On the face of the "new" man the cross-hatch goes further up to about ¾ of the face of the man instead of stopping at about ½ way

Man change 2 - this plaid pattern did not go all the way to the edge of the man before the man change (like it does on the Warrior man), instead there was, and is, an “edge” something between 1/32 and 1/16 of an inch…very thin but impacting how the ball is struck for angles and control in a pin...this edge was not removed with the new man change but there was an edge change

Man Edge Change - There has been an edge change…in attempt to fix the angle striking issues, that edge has been slightly beveled…so instead of being a right angle with the side of the man, this same line/strip is now on an angle…say from 90 degrees to 45 degrees…I don’t actually think this is a full 45 egrees but rather something in between 90 and 45 degrees, Ed Geer could probably say what they settled on

although in my opinion, they did not make the best decision when changing the mold and should have gone cross-hatch all the way to the edge and taken the curve away and made the front edge a straight edge, the overall change is still positive

• Side-strips, Handles, and Balls - a decision to change these was made at this time too but the changes were not implemented until the T3000 "full meal deal".

Platinum Tour Edition T3000 2009 - current

Platinum Tour 2008 First used fully dressed out at the 2008 World Championships. It was not until the 2009 Hall of Fame tournament that this table had all the upgrades.

What do I mean by “full meal deal T3000”? Well, there are some late model T2000 metal wrap tables (that have the new CRAPPY plastic score markers) and that seem to have been sold as T3000 tables. Some (but not all) of these tables have the Big Tornado and ITSF stickers…see video below on set up of the table Zeke won at Worlds which he calls a T3000 but which is not a Full Meal Deal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtFqO5Ng-7s

My local bar was sold this same table (with small stickers) being told it was a T3000…this is the table with the warped surface…This new bar table and the Zeke’s table are NOT what I consider a real T3000 but as pointed out by Dave and Torando, technically this is a T3000… Tornado may indeed have tried to sell these tables as T3000's, name or not, they are NOT the “full meal deal” T3000 and really are late run T2000 tables

I think Zeke’s does not have a warped surface and BigBrewGuy has same table with little stickers sans CRAPPY plastic markers...no other difference...T3000? For sure they are NOT.

T3000 2009 - current - $1000-$1175“FULL MEAL DEAL T3000”This table should have all the changes listed above, men, bearings, CRAPPY score-markers, Big Tornado/ITSF stickers.
In addition to these changes the real T3000 should have a unwarped surface and the following.

Handle Change: Now a softer “plastic” compound same shape as the wood handle above I refer to as “original” handle. It looks something like the plastic handle that Tornado tried during the Grey Marble era but they are a different material, slightly softer, slightly but noticeably smaller, and they do not have the hard edges of the original plastic handle. These factors make this a significant improvement. Real nice handle, highly recommended for Tornado players.

Side-Strip: changed to clear strip, slightly wider, which is essentially flat…this is to keep the ball from jumping up after hitting the strip to help facilitate banks and cut ball off the table…trade off is that the ball gets stuck on the wall from time to time - it works and ball is off the table less

Ball Change: as of 6/29/09 Tornado has settled on a ball and it is slightly darker red, harder, and keeps its scruffy surface longer...it is referred to has the "5 hour tumbled" ball because it has been tumbled for 5 hours to get the surface it has...pretty good ball but I think it is too hard...Tornado isn't showing any signs of changing this ball again any time soon. The 5 hour tumbled ball wears slow and consistent.

---

KEYS TO BUYING A USED COIN-OP
When buying a used table, everyone asks what they should look for…
Take or get lots of close up good digital pictures and I or someone on this site can help you determine what you are looking at… If possible, best to visit table in person but either way, these are the things you are looking for.

1. TABLE SURFACE: First and most important is, is the table surface level...no warping...it would be very weird if a BrMrb had warping but don't assume it is okay because it could warp if it sat in a bar long enough and had enough beer spilled on it - this would be a total deal killer
Tornado has only had one manufacturing issue with warped surfaces and that was the Metal wrapped F5/T2000…not all, but many of these tables had warped surfaces…do not buy one of these…long story but bottom line is it is too much hassle to fix and you can easily find a different coin-op without a warped playing surface.

2. GOAL EDGES: Second and probably a deal breaker are the edges on the goals...if they have been hit enough times that they are starting to chip away, we call this a "blown out goal" then you probably want to pass on this one and wait for the next table (there will be more)...it can be fixed but it is very complicated and requires real skill

3. INSIDE PLAYFIELD WALLS: the inside walls (white surface) should be firmly attached, no lifting, pockets, chipping, holes, etc….this like the goal edges and play surface are very hard for an average person to fix and if they are really damaged, should be a deal killer

4. RODS: rods need to all be straight, no bends at all...the seller can tell if the rods are bent but if they aren’t sure, they can spin each and if it wobbles when it spins, its bent...bent rods are not a deal breaker because they aren't too hard to replace but they are $35 each plus shipping so you would want to figure that out into your offer

5. MEN: Cracked or broken men - same as the rods, not a deal breaker but a cost if some need to be replaced difference is cost is much lower impact at $5 each...you will want to get 2 or 3 of each color anyway unless the person has extra with the table

6. COIN MECHANISM: Make sure the coin mechanism is fully working even if you don’t need it for your use because if you ever want to re-sell it, you will want this working, it gives you a bigger audience of buyers. Replacing all the parts in this is well over $100. With that said, it will be very rare you find one that doesn’t work but you should know for sure before buying. If there are problems, figure them out and what it will cost to fix and negotiate selling price or walk away from deal.

7. FEET AND LEGS: Legs aren’t likely to be bad, haven’t seen that many times but the feet need to be in good shape and working (meaning they can thread up and down)...if not, they can be easily replaced, and they are inexpenisve…this should only impact your offer price

8. BALLS: Are there any with the table and what shape...this is the least of the things but good to know because balls are $3 each...just an aside, a ton of people don't like them but if the ball is a genuine Tornado ball but is well used from a bar, I love them because they get very sticky and are good for control especially for a new player...they bounce a little more too but that doesn't bother me...you will not find universal agreement on this point just my opinion for what its worth…most old Tornado balls can be washed and made near like new easily if you want that

---

AFTER THE PURCHASE - basic TABLE MAINTENANCE

Equipment Needed for Basic Maintenance
• Roll pins 30 cents each: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-020.html
• Silicone 8 oz bottle $12: http://tornadofoosb.powweb.com/store/page6.html
• Pocket Size $2.50: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/fooslube.html
• Bearing Wrench $5.50: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-049.html
• Roll Pin Punch $5: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-021.html

If you need to replace any bearings, bumpers, or men, they can be found here
Tornado Parts: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/tornado.html

Spare Parts…what should you have on hand.
• 2 or 3 each color man, when you get down to 1, reorder
• 15-20 roll pins, when you get to 5, reorder
• 4 bumpers, when you get down to 1, reorder
• 1 split bearing halves – these don’t go bad almost ever, so one should take care of you for a long time…reorder when you use it

What to do…Clean the table top to bottom...most people use a 50/50 mix of water and 409 cleaner ... I personally was taught many many years ago never to use anything on the playing surface or on the men so I just use hot water and elbow grease...it is the safe way and guarantees you don't leave any foreign substance on the playing surfaces

on the exterior cabinet, legs, and feet the 50/50 works real well

Using a Bearing Wrench, take all your bearings apart and clean any built up gunk from the bearing half's...the first time you do this on a used table, I recommend taking them all off and doing them all at the same time. For ongoing maintenance, just pull take apart the split bearings once or twice a year or whenever you suspect build up…clean at that time one at a time with hot water or use the 50/50 mixture.
A Bearing Wrench usually comes with the table. You can do it without a bearing wrench but it is harder and this is a basic must have table tool.
Bearing Wrench $5.50: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-049.html

The non-split side of the bearings, the “nut” may be gunky too, they are part of the “bearings”
the ones on the non handle side are easy to remove but if want the bearing nut on this side, you will need to remove handle - make sure you have extra roll pins before beginning this phase of clean up
Roll Pins 30 cents each: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-020.html

Roll Pin Punch $5 or $9: Did you get a roll pin "punch" with the table? if not, again you NEED one of these...you can use other things like a counter sink to get by but this is made for this application and is worth the investment and is a standard table maintenance tool

here is the punch everyone uses standard with every table sold
Roll Pin Punch $5: http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net...0-021.html

however, recently foosball.com found a big boy version of this which I bought and it is much better, easier to use, I absolutely love it...to me, well worth the difference in price...you can't tell by the pictures but trust me when I say the standard is like a 6 year old and the big one is like a professional NFL linebacker...okay, that may be overstated a little but you get the idea...foosdirect is the only place I have ever seen it
Big Boy "Super Pin Driver" $8.95: http://foosdirectstore.stores.yahoo.net/...river.html

Cleaning the Bearings: Simplest approach is to take them all off (bearing halves and the bearing nut), and soak them in very hot water and a liberal amount of dish soap…let these soak while you scrub the table surface and rods…then go back to the bearings when you are done and wash each one until they are totally clean of build up, rinse with hot of water (as hot as you can stand)…lay them out on a dry cloth to drain/dry
Make sure they are air or hand dried completely before putting them back on the table

After you have all your bearings cleaned and before you replace them, clean the rods really well to remove anything left on them like silicone, beer, Jack Daniels, or other "special" fluids people creatively use to "lube" the rods

Silicone: Hopefully you were given some Silicone but if not you NEED it...I recommend buying a large supply bottle and the small applicator Pocket Size version. The Pocket Size version it is by far the best way to apply silicone and you can use the big bottle to refill the travel size. Silicone should go on rods only, don’t get it on anything else, it is very slick. Apply thin line on each rod from the bumper to the edge of the inside bearing – do this on the near side and far side of the rod.
Turn the rod in circles and pull the rods back and forth gently and slowly at first to evenly distribute the lube on all sides and to not splatter any on the table surface.

8 oz bottle $12 http: //tornadofoosb.powweb.com/store/page6.html
Pocket Size $2.50 http: //foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/fooslube.html

Ball Care: If you have gotten Tornado balls with your used table or end up with older used Tornado balls, you can bring them back to near new by simply putting them is a sock and throwing them in your washer and wash with soap and hot water. When they are done, throw them in the drier (still in the sock) and dry on hot fully. There are many other methods but this is simple and works surprisingly well.

NOTE ABOUT ON-GOING MATINENANCE
once you have done the complete cleaning, you won't need to put more than an hour a two a year into maintenance to keep your table like new...if you play everyday, wipe the surface once a month or so, clean bearings one hear one there as needed, and lube the rods as needed. Very simple and easy. Every couple years you can do the deep cleaning with all bearings and so forth. Along the way, you will need to change a man and a bumper even less often. Thats it, it just doesn't get any easier.]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1020 Mon, 07 May 2012 19:00:18 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1020 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1019 Mon, 07 May 2012 14:12:52 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1019
You need to register a username with them before you can begin to view stats. It's quick and easy as is maneuvering through the entire website! You can find us under the Locations tab. Over the next little while I will updating our stats by entering previous tournaments which were never entered, starting with our Open Doubles Points Race we had this past Friday. I will also be adding new players and current IFP points as I go along, sorry if you don't see your name or any points yet!

The website is http://www.netfoos.com

And I'll apologize in advance that there are some missing names when you look up players by winnings, they have been removed from Netfoos in the past which left a blank where ever they placed! Not sure if I can fix this problem at all?]]>
You need to register a username with them before you can begin to view stats. It's quick and easy as is maneuvering through the entire website! You can find us under the Locations tab. Over the next little while I will updating our stats by entering previous tournaments which were never entered, starting with our Open Doubles Points Race we had this past Friday. I will also be adding new players and current IFP points as I go along, sorry if you don't see your name or any points yet!

The website is http://www.netfoos.com

And I'll apologize in advance that there are some missing names when you look up players by winnings, they have been removed from Netfoos in the past which left a blank where ever they placed! Not sure if I can fix this problem at all?]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1018 Thu, 03 May 2012 19:09:18 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1018
As DYPs have been starting and ending very late:
- players must register before 9pm (either in person or by texting Jacky @ 647-999-2578 and receiving a confirmation text) and indicate when they are arriving
- it may not be possible to register after 9pm. If it IS possible, the player will need to pay double the entry fee (ie $10 instead of $5, or $20 instead of $10).
- winning teams must enter results in Netfoos immediately after the match. Matches must start within 5 minutes of being drawn (unless specifically discussed with DYP team)

Rules of Play:
- Rules generally follow the ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation) standards: http://www.table-soccer.org/rules/docume...nglish.pdf
- 10 second limit on 5-bar, 15 seconds on others. No spinning or unsportsmanlike conduct.

Determining Table Selection and Ball/Side:
- Unless both teams agree to play on the same table, the first coin-toss will be used to determine which table is used first. The winner of the coin-toss chooses the table for Game 1, the loser chooses the table for Game 2. If game 3 is required, the first goal will be played on the 1st table. After this point, players will switch tables every 2 goals, with win by 2 to a maximum of 8 points.
- A second coin-toss determines ball/side. Winner can choose ball or side, and loser the other option. When a side is chosen by a player for 1 table, the other player can choose side on the other table. These side selections remain fixed for the duration of the match.
- The loser of Game 1 gets serve for Game 2, loser of Game 2 gets serve for Game 3.
- The loser of the first coin-toss will pay first, and then alternate afterwards.

Payouts (final results must be entered in Netfoos before payout):
- For DYP/BYPs with 9 teams or more, payouts will go to top 3 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd / 3rd : 60% / 30% / 10%
- For DYP/BYPs with 5 teams or more, payouts will go to top 2 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd : 70% / 30%
- For DYP/BYPs with 4 teams or less, the winner receives 100% of the payout

Uneven Numbers of Players for DYPs:
- When there are an uneven number of players, there will be a draw of names among players that are willing to play 1 vs 2. The winner of the draw will play by himself.
- When a team is playing a single player, they cannot choose Bonzini or Garlando.

Handicapping System (poker chip model):
- Teams considered by the DYP team to require a handicap will be given 1 or more chips
- Poker chips may be used when the team has possession of the ball, and can be ‘cashed in’ as a goal. Chips can be used to win a game, but not the match.

New Players and Female Players:
- 1st time participants to the DYP play with free entry
- Female players always receive free entry]]>
As DYPs have been starting and ending very late:
- players must register before 9pm (either in person or by texting Jacky @ 647-999-2578 and receiving a confirmation text) and indicate when they are arriving
- it may not be possible to register after 9pm. If it IS possible, the player will need to pay double the entry fee (ie $10 instead of $5, or $20 instead of $10).
- winning teams must enter results in Netfoos immediately after the match. Matches must start within 5 minutes of being drawn (unless specifically discussed with DYP team)

Rules of Play:
- Rules generally follow the ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation) standards: http://www.table-soccer.org/rules/docume...nglish.pdf
- 10 second limit on 5-bar, 15 seconds on others. No spinning or unsportsmanlike conduct.

Determining Table Selection and Ball/Side:
- Unless both teams agree to play on the same table, the first coin-toss will be used to determine which table is used first. The winner of the coin-toss chooses the table for Game 1, the loser chooses the table for Game 2. If game 3 is required, the first goal will be played on the 1st table. After this point, players will switch tables every 2 goals, with win by 2 to a maximum of 8 points.
- A second coin-toss determines ball/side. Winner can choose ball or side, and loser the other option. When a side is chosen by a player for 1 table, the other player can choose side on the other table. These side selections remain fixed for the duration of the match.
- The loser of Game 1 gets serve for Game 2, loser of Game 2 gets serve for Game 3.
- The loser of the first coin-toss will pay first, and then alternate afterwards.

Payouts (final results must be entered in Netfoos before payout):
- For DYP/BYPs with 9 teams or more, payouts will go to top 3 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd / 3rd : 60% / 30% / 10%
- For DYP/BYPs with 5 teams or more, payouts will go to top 2 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd : 70% / 30%
- For DYP/BYPs with 4 teams or less, the winner receives 100% of the payout

Uneven Numbers of Players for DYPs:
- When there are an uneven number of players, there will be a draw of names among players that are willing to play 1 vs 2. The winner of the draw will play by himself.
- When a team is playing a single player, they cannot choose Bonzini or Garlando.

Handicapping System (poker chip model):
- Teams considered by the DYP team to require a handicap will be given 1 or more chips
- Poker chips may be used when the team has possession of the ball, and can be ‘cashed in’ as a goal. Chips can be used to win a game, but not the match.

New Players and Female Players:
- 1st time participants to the DYP play with free entry
- Female players always receive free entry]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1017 Thu, 03 May 2012 19:07:07 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1017
Schedule - First Saturday of every month
- Players must register 1 hour before event starts (either in person or by texting Jacky @ 647-999-2578 and receiving a confirmation text) and indicate when they are arriving. This is important as we need time to properly seed the matches
- Open Singles: 2pm (3/5 winner side, 2/3 loser side, win by 2 max 8)
- Open Doubles: 6:30pm (3/5 winner side, 2/3 loser side, win by 2 max 8)
- Winning teams must enter results in Netfoos immediately after match. Matches must start within 5 minutes of being drawn (unless specifically discussed with Tournament staff)

Rules of Play:
- Rules generally follow the ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation) standards: http://www.table-soccer.org/rules/docume...nglish.pdf
- 10 second limit on 5-bar, 15 seconds on others. No spinning or unsportsmanlike conduct.

Determining Table Selection and Ball/Side:
- Teams must declare a ‘home’ table, which is their default table for the event.
- Unless both teams declare the same ‘home’ table, the first coin-toss will be used to determine which table is used first. The winner of the coin-toss chooses the table for Games 1 & 3, the loser chooses the table for Games 2 & 4 (for 3/5 format). If game 5 is required, the first goal will be played on the 1st table. After this point, players will switch tables every 2 goals, with win by 2 to a maximum of 8 points.
- A second coin-toss determines ball/side. Winner can choose ball or side, and loser the other option. When a side is chosen by a player for 1 table, the other player can immediately choose side on the other table. These side selections remain fixed for the duration of the match.
- The loser of Game 1 gets serve for Game 2, loser of Game 2 gets serve for Game 3, etc.
- The loser of the first coin-toss will pay first, and then alternate afterwards.

Points:
- Points are gained towards the National Points Standings, which help determine the Canadian World Cup team (http://tablesoccerca.ning.com/page/current-points)

Payouts (final results must be entered in Netfoos before payout):
- For events with 9 teams or more, payouts will go to top 3 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd / 3rd : 60% / 30% / 10%
- For events with 5 teams or more, payouts will go to top 2 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd : 70% / 30%
- For events with 4 teams or less, the winner receives 100% of the payout
- The top placing amateur team receives free entry to BOTH OD/OS the following month

New Players and Female Players:
- 1st time participants at Teamplay play with free entry
- Female players always receive free entry

Entry Fees:
- $15 per event, or $25 for both.

  Teamplay OD OS Rules and Guidelines 2012 05 01.pdf (Size: 26.34 KB / Downloads: 0) ]]>
Schedule - First Saturday of every month
- Players must register 1 hour before event starts (either in person or by texting Jacky @ 647-999-2578 and receiving a confirmation text) and indicate when they are arriving. This is important as we need time to properly seed the matches
- Open Singles: 2pm (3/5 winner side, 2/3 loser side, win by 2 max 8)
- Open Doubles: 6:30pm (3/5 winner side, 2/3 loser side, win by 2 max 8)
- Winning teams must enter results in Netfoos immediately after match. Matches must start within 5 minutes of being drawn (unless specifically discussed with Tournament staff)

Rules of Play:
- Rules generally follow the ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation) standards: http://www.table-soccer.org/rules/docume...nglish.pdf
- 10 second limit on 5-bar, 15 seconds on others. No spinning or unsportsmanlike conduct.

Determining Table Selection and Ball/Side:
- Teams must declare a ‘home’ table, which is their default table for the event.
- Unless both teams declare the same ‘home’ table, the first coin-toss will be used to determine which table is used first. The winner of the coin-toss chooses the table for Games 1 & 3, the loser chooses the table for Games 2 & 4 (for 3/5 format). If game 5 is required, the first goal will be played on the 1st table. After this point, players will switch tables every 2 goals, with win by 2 to a maximum of 8 points.
- A second coin-toss determines ball/side. Winner can choose ball or side, and loser the other option. When a side is chosen by a player for 1 table, the other player can immediately choose side on the other table. These side selections remain fixed for the duration of the match.
- The loser of Game 1 gets serve for Game 2, loser of Game 2 gets serve for Game 3, etc.
- The loser of the first coin-toss will pay first, and then alternate afterwards.

Points:
- Points are gained towards the National Points Standings, which help determine the Canadian World Cup team (http://tablesoccerca.ning.com/page/current-points)

Payouts (final results must be entered in Netfoos before payout):
- For events with 9 teams or more, payouts will go to top 3 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd / 3rd : 60% / 30% / 10%
- For events with 5 teams or more, payouts will go to top 2 teams in approximately this ratio: 1st / 2nd : 70% / 30%
- For events with 4 teams or less, the winner receives 100% of the payout
- The top placing amateur team receives free entry to BOTH OD/OS the following month

New Players and Female Players:
- 1st time participants at Teamplay play with free entry
- Female players always receive free entry

Entry Fees:
- $15 per event, or $25 for both.

  Teamplay OD OS Rules and Guidelines 2012 05 01.pdf (Size: 26.34 KB / Downloads: 0) ]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1016 Tue, 01 May 2012 19:18:03 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1016
We are working on tabulating points and creating an ongoing ranking. Here are the results we have for Ottawa. I need last names for people. Could you help me out?

Club Event.
Open Doubles
1st - 10 Points - Merv Buske and JP Surette $170
2nd - 8 Points - Chris A. and Taha Ahmed $90
3rd - 6 Points - Chris Thomas and Sam $50 + $40 Amateur Bonus
4th - 4 Points - Anthony Lofaro and Jon Trudel
5/6 - 2 Points - Vern Rose and Carm
5/6 - 2 Points - Jesse and Dan Packer

Open Singles
1st - 10 Points - Merv Buske $60
2nd - 8 Points - Chris Thomas $30
3rd - 6 Points - Dan Kritz$20
4th - 4 Points - Waleed
5/6 - 2 Points - Vern Rose
5/6 - 2 Points - Julian

Regional Event
Open Doubles
1. Kane Gabriel and Olavo Tavares
2. Matt Keezer and Biggie
3. Merv Buske and JP Surette
4. Francois and Spence
5/6. Julien and Laurent
5/6. Hugo Tavares and Mike Tavares
7/8. Maroon and Louis
7/8. Dan Packer and Jesse

Open Singles
1. Olavo Tavares
2. Kane Gabriel
3. Francois
4. Biggie
5/6. Matt Keezer
5/6. Julien
7/8. Louis
7/8. Dan Kritz

Chris]]>
We are working on tabulating points and creating an ongoing ranking. Here are the results we have for Ottawa. I need last names for people. Could you help me out?

Club Event.
Open Doubles
1st - 10 Points - Merv Buske and JP Surette $170
2nd - 8 Points - Chris A. and Taha Ahmed $90
3rd - 6 Points - Chris Thomas and Sam $50 + $40 Amateur Bonus
4th - 4 Points - Anthony Lofaro and Jon Trudel
5/6 - 2 Points - Vern Rose and Carm
5/6 - 2 Points - Jesse and Dan Packer

Open Singles
1st - 10 Points - Merv Buske $60
2nd - 8 Points - Chris Thomas $30
3rd - 6 Points - Dan Kritz$20
4th - 4 Points - Waleed
5/6 - 2 Points - Vern Rose
5/6 - 2 Points - Julian

Regional Event
Open Doubles
1. Kane Gabriel and Olavo Tavares
2. Matt Keezer and Biggie
3. Merv Buske and JP Surette
4. Francois and Spence
5/6. Julien and Laurent
5/6. Hugo Tavares and Mike Tavares
7/8. Maroon and Louis
7/8. Dan Packer and Jesse

Open Singles
1. Olavo Tavares
2. Kane Gabriel
3. Francois
4. Biggie
5/6. Matt Keezer
5/6. Julien
7/8. Louis
7/8. Dan Kritz

Chris]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1015 Sun, 29 Apr 2012 19:21:12 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1015
Current Toronto Team List:

Dan (silentsam)
Jesse (Jester)
Jon
Vern]]>
Current Toronto Team List:

Dan (silentsam)
Jesse (Jester)
Jon
Vern]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1014 Sun, 29 Apr 2012 02:47:07 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1014
Flyer updated:

And here's a video with training tips for foosball athletes!
http://foosstar.com/toronto

  2012 Toronto Open 0508.pdf (Size: 437.92 KB / Downloads: 5) ]]>
Flyer updated:

And here's a video with training tips for foosball athletes!
http://foosstar.com/toronto

  2012 Toronto Open 0508.pdf (Size: 437.92 KB / Downloads: 5) ]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1013 Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:14:29 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1013
See you there]]>
See you there]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1012 Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:21:58 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1012
Players interested in joining the 2013 Canadian World Cup team should fill out an application form with relevant information and experience and pay a non-refundable fee of $20. The fee will both ensure seriousness and will help to fund the eventual team.

A committee of 5-7 members, selected by Will Stranks, will be assembled. The restrictions on the committee members are that they should be well-informed citizens of the foosball community, and that they should be appropriately geographically distributed (e.g., one suggestion would be that there should be one from each major foosball area - B.C., Calgary, Edmonton, Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec City).

From the pooled applications, the committee shall independently form their own lists of 7 member teams (with 2 alternates). Each time an applicant's name is mentioned, they shall receive a point. An alternate mention will receive a half point. Those with the highest number of points shall be named to be the team. Any ties will be solved by a tiebreaking vote from the committee. At this point, a larger deposit (~$200) will be requested from the voted-upon team members to ensure their commitment. This deposit could be used to go towards team uniforms.

If a player decides to withdraw from the team, they will forfeit all paid deposits to the team.

The committee will be announced within one week, if you have a recommendation for a committee member please email will_stranks@hotmail dot com


Please re-post this on any relevant forums across the country if you see this here and know where to repost it.]]>
Players interested in joining the 2013 Canadian World Cup team should fill out an application form with relevant information and experience and pay a non-refundable fee of $20. The fee will both ensure seriousness and will help to fund the eventual team.

A committee of 5-7 members, selected by Will Stranks, will be assembled. The restrictions on the committee members are that they should be well-informed citizens of the foosball community, and that they should be appropriately geographically distributed (e.g., one suggestion would be that there should be one from each major foosball area - B.C., Calgary, Edmonton, Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec City).

From the pooled applications, the committee shall independently form their own lists of 7 member teams (with 2 alternates). Each time an applicant's name is mentioned, they shall receive a point. An alternate mention will receive a half point. Those with the highest number of points shall be named to be the team. Any ties will be solved by a tiebreaking vote from the committee. At this point, a larger deposit (~$200) will be requested from the voted-upon team members to ensure their commitment. This deposit could be used to go towards team uniforms.

If a player decides to withdraw from the team, they will forfeit all paid deposits to the team.

The committee will be announced within one week, if you have a recommendation for a committee member please email will_stranks@hotmail dot com


Please re-post this on any relevant forums across the country if you see this here and know where to repost it.]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1011 Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:44:29 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1011
As a continuation of the National Point Series, we will be hosting an Open Doubles on Friday May 4th at 8:00. It will cost you $10 to play - $5 if this is your first event as part of the National Point Series. As always it is free for Women.

We will be adding $100 to the pot to make things interesting.

See you Friday at 8:00

Chris]]>
As a continuation of the National Point Series, we will be hosting an Open Doubles on Friday May 4th at 8:00. It will cost you $10 to play - $5 if this is your first event as part of the National Point Series. As always it is free for Women.

We will be adding $100 to the pot to make things interesting.

See you Friday at 8:00

Chris]]> http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1010 Wed, 25 Apr 2012 17:44:30 +0000 http://forums.ottawafoos.com/showthread.php?tid=1010
Let's get the word out...]]>
Let's get the word out...]]>